East Africa Part 2: Rwanda

One of Rwanda's nicknames is the"Land of a Thousand Hills."  When most people hear Rwanda, however, they think of genocide.  And that's ok.  I was just like most people.  But, as I learned from reading and talking to folks, the genocide that occurred over the course of four months in 1994 is actually a part of a much longer and more complex story that would take way too long to go in to in this little blog.  More importantly, however, the genocide of the Tutsi people at the hands of the Hutu in 1994 is not as taboo of a topic in Rwanda as one might think.  The events of that spring (still fresh in the memories of anybody over the age of 30) serve as a reference point that marked the beginning of an important national transition to a country where mutual respect, national pride, and a strong sense of individual dedication to one's community reign supreme.

No longer are people considered "Hutu" or "Tutsi,"  These ideas have since been officially banished.  There are only "Rwandans" now.

It is not that the country has forgotten what happened only 21 years ago where almost one million people (nearly a fifth of the population) died in such a senseless fashion--with many more fleeing the country.  Quite the contrary.  The country continues to face its history with a sense of reconciliation and a willingness to learn from the this past.

Today, the country embraces the spirit of "umuganda" which roughly translates to "coming together in common purpose to achieve an outcome."  For example, on the last Saturday of the month, everybody (organized by hillside communities) comes together in the morning to collectively clean all common spaces of trash and engage in a common-good improvement project such as installing benches or playgrounds in a park or even building a community center.  All of this occurs before the sub-communities sit down together in a town hall fashion to discuss issues that effect their municipality.  Knowing this, it is not hard to understand why the streets of Kigali were completely devoid of trash and the buildings and general infrastructure were some of the best-kept that I've seen in Africa (or even the world). Sooooo clean.  It was actually the first thing I said when we got out of the airport!

We stayed at the Hotel des Mille Collines made famous as the subject of the 2004 film, "Hotel Rwanda," starring Don Cheadle and serving as a safehaven for thousands of Tutsis escaping death at the hands of the military and armed militias.  The hotel (now run by Kempinski Hotel group) was just...ok.  The usual Africa equivalent of five-stars (which means great outward appearance but a bit lacking just under the surface in many areas).  The pool and breakfast more than made up for any other deficient areas.  I know that this hotel got its recognition from the movie, and that is the motivation for many to stay here, but its not really worth the money.  But if you are in Kigali, do stop here for a meal or a drink, so you can say that you have been there bc it is a site to see.  Just imagining all the rooms filled with people who have done nothing wrong but still are fighting for their lives, really is moving. 

View from our balcony at the icon Hotel des Mille Collines overlooking the hillside boroughs of Kigali

We made a point to visit sites important to understanding the genocide to include the national genocide memorial in Kigali and the Catholic church at Ntarama were hundreds of men, women, and children were murdered while seeking refuge in the only place they thought they would be safe.  It was hard not to feel like an unwelcome outsider intruding upon a sacred site, but the people really do want the rest of the world to see what happened, possible in hopes of preventing anything like it from taking place ever again.  We chose not take any photographs partly out of respect for those whose bodies and memories rest there permanently but also because there is no way any photograph could ever do any justice to the gravity of standing in these places and trying to understand just how normal people could coldly commit such acts of cruelty and barbarism towards fellow human-beings with no apparent sense of hesitation. A somber site, but a must see to show your respect for those who lost their lives for senseless reasons.  The tour guides are always cheerful yet to the point about the atrocities that happened. They never leave a detail out and will explain how everyone's lives were taken,...every single jaw dropping detail. Bring tissues.  

Our visit to Rwanda took on a lighter tone as we visited the palace of the King Mutara III Rudahigwa, the first king during the time of German colonial occupation during the late 19th century.  Prior to that time, Rwandan kings would reside in more traditionally-built structures such as the type recreated adjacent to the palace.  One interesting part of our trip was seeing the royal cows (not bred for milk or meat....simply as a status symbol).  These things had massive horns.  So much so that we were afraid of losing an eye or worse.  Luckily, the "cowboy" soothed these gentle beasts with a song that called them over to stand there nicely while we got a closer look.

The camera did no justice to the magnificent rolling hills of the Rwandan countryside

Inside the King's hut

King (and prince) in the castle.  Sitting on my little throne.

Cow and cowboy

Along the way on our adventures through Rwanda, we happened upon some interesting eating spots we didn't expect to find in a place like east-central Africa.  The first "Maze Fresh" is simply Chipotle if somebody moved it to Africa and added buy-one-get-one-free margaritas.  Very interesting.  We also found "Mister Chips," founded by a Canadian and possible one of the best hole-in-the-wall burger joints in Africa (after Cape Town).  Finally, we found another Canadian-owned (noticing a pattern) restaurant that was actually part of a hotel but had honest to goodness poutine, bringing back a taste of childhood in Ottawa.  (For those who don't know, poutine is french fries with melted cheese curds and thick brown gravy and it is heaven in a cup...or plate).  A country in Africa with decent food?  YES!  Those tacos were delectable and I could eat them everyday!  The kid was super excited about his 'dilla'!

Maze Fresh....yes we got the t-shirt

Poutine (and that's coke, not wine)

After satisfying our hunger, we managed to find another historical home.  This time it was the former Presidential Palace belonging to both President Habyarimana and Bizimungu.  What's interesting is that these two men occupied the same position but on opposite time bookends of the 1994 genocide with the former being the Hutu president killed when his plane was mysteriously shot down in April or 1994, triggering the anti-Tutsi violence the followed.  The crazy thing is that plane crashed right on his property with pieces of the wreckage left for visitors to see today.  It's the sort of thing for which there are no words.

Ryan didn't even touch on the awesomeness that is Innocent.  I know we will meet a lot of people in our travels, but Innocent will be one that I remember.  He was our driver/guide for our trip.  We spent just about everyday with him, multiple hours in the car, and you get to know a person a lot when in such tight quarters.  First off, Innocent is a good looking man.  Strike that, an exceptionally good looking man with a smile that would make any woman melt. *Sorry Hunny!* Anyways, his English was not the best but he tried his hardest and would often ask Ryan or myself (hahahaha!) "En Francais?" and he would ramble on and on.  The first day we went out we asked Innocent if he would like to have lunch with us, of course he said yes and quietly and quickly ate his burger.  The second day he was a Chatty McChatterson and loved on Knox like he was his own.  It was wonderful.  I actually think he was a little sad to say good bye to the kid.  I would have happily left Know with Innocent for the night, that is how awesome I think he is. I got sick while in Rwanda, and Innocent made sure that I had the meds that I needed to be a functional human being.  He was quite impressed by my skills of getting in and out of a store with what I needed before he could even park the car.  Even after being pulled over and getting a ticket, but not after some serious Rwandan arguing, he was kind and still professional.  But we could tell that he was seriously upset.  I mean, I was too, he honestly wasn't speeding!  So if you are ever in Rwanda, and need a driver/guide, call Parfait (yes that is his real name) and ask for Innocent to pick you up, you will not be disappointed!

Rwanda, an unexpected jewel in the middle conflict-ridden central Africa is a can't miss if you're even in the area.  It has a lot to offer and is on rise, set to be a big player in the info and tech scene in the next 30 years.  Just them time.

Ryan did a great job with this blog post, so much so that there were not many "Bean interjections" that I felt needed to be announced.  With that being said, Rwanda was one of the most delightful countries that I have visited yet.  There is nothing that will draw you in from a tourist stand point, except maybe the gorillas...but no one under the age of twelve is allowed in the parks, plus the $800 per person price tag is nothing to scoff at.  But Rwanda is a place I would live, heck, its a place I would like to live.  The people are beyond wonderful, the land is beautiful and clean and it is a place that I think the Loviners could call home.  So dear sweet Army, if you are reading this, listen to me when I say...send us to Rwanda so that I can share more of this gem of a country with the ones that I love!  (Because there is no way you cant not come visit...Rwanda is amazing!)