I would not trade this year of regional travel for anything. My career has granted me such a great opportunity to see places I would otherwise not even dreamed of. Better yet, I can share these experiences with my family, creating memories that will last a lifetime. As T.S. Elliot put it, "We shall not cease from exploration, and the end of our exploring will be to arrive where we started and know the place for the first time." Make no mistake, travel is a pleasure, but you work for it. Here, Here, Sir! Well said, and I agree completely. This year of travel (though not over yet!) has been amazing, trying and complicated. Would I do it again, yes! But of course now I have the knowledge and *expertise* to make the trips a little easier on all three of us!
Ethiopia is a country apart within the broader frame of Africa. It is one of only two modern countries on the continent of Africa that were not fully colonized by European powers (Liberia being the other). I really want to go to Liberia to meet American decedents that now live in Africa. The idea is fascinating to me, and if you dont know what I am talking about then read up on it. Liberia is an intriguing country! And if there is one last stop that we could make it would be to there. But alas, we cannot and I am kinda bummed about it! And no, I am NOT afraid of Ebola. Anyway, back to Ethiopia.... The country was home to ancient Axumite Empire dating as far back as the 4th century BCE through to it's modern day claim to fame of being the home to a sect of Christianity older than than all other European or Orthodox varieties.
Normally bustling as one would expect from a crowded city, Addis Ababa was especially congested and animated due to both the ongoing global Conference on Financing for Development and the anticipated arrival of President Obama (for which we are thankful were not in town for). After a brief stopover in Addis (And thanks to our epic and awesome host, Emma! She made the beginning of our trip seamless and comfortable and her cuisine is delectable! Not many people would take in three adults and a toddler but she did with open arms and we are beyond grateful! Plus, sitting around sipping on hot tea and chatting is just what this momma loves to do!)
We began our journey northward to get away from it all. On a teeny tiny airplane. The first of many, and I hated every second of it. First up was the ancient city of Axum, site of the capital of the ancient Kingdom of Axum, a naval and trading power that ruled the greater east Africa/Red Sea region from about 400 BC into the 10th century. The city is home to various UNESCO World Heritage archaeological sites. The major Aksumite monuments in the town are stelae. These obelisks are around 1,700 years old and have become a symbol of the Ethiopian people's identity. One was stolen by the Italians (and later returned). Another (one of the bigger ones) fell and broke in to pieces during construction.
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| These are grave markers of sorts. Giant ominous grave markers. |
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| And under the giant grave markers are giant tombs. |
The next major site we visited was the necropolis of the 6th century Kings Gebre-Meskel and Kaleb. The site is unassuming, dug straight in to the earth with separate stone rooms for the tombs as well as treasure. The sites was somewhat spoiled, however, by the incursion of farmers tilling the soil directly above. It didn't even seem like an archaeological site. This is indicative of the problem of population growth and lack of land to support it.
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| Family Photo! |
Next we visited the the legendary Tsion Mariam Church where the original Ark of the Covenant is said to be housed. This smaller church is part of a larger complex with a monastery and another larger church that people can enter. Nobody is allowed to view the ark but, there is no question that it exists. Yeah, uh huh. While Ryan and Knox went to the monastery, women are not allowed, our guide took my camera and went and snapped these photos for me.
The last stop in Axum were the ruins of the Dungur Palace, known locally and popularly as the Palace of the Queen of Sheba (i.e. the Palace of Makeda in Ethiopia). However, Stuart Munro-Hay describes it as "the sort of dwelling that a prosperous Aksumite, perhaps a noble or high official of the fourth to sixth centuries AD, might have constructed for himself."
Our next day in Ethiopia, after a slightly annoying delay, we boarded our little turbo-prop plane and flew half an hour to Lalibella. We spent the rest of the day and a good part of the next exploring the amazing 13th century rock-hewn Ethiopian Orthodox churches that have been carved into the rugged mountainsides, now rightfully acknowledged as one the wonders of the world. The churches themselves would have been enough, but we were fortunate enough to see and talk to the monks who live in the caves directly surrounding the churches (and relying on donations from the community--and tourists--to survive). After the churches, we walked around some of the villages and saw tukuls, which are the traditional two-story huts where many people still live in today. Since it was a Saturday, we followed the hoards of people and pack animals down the narrow and rocky paths to the giant market where we saw everything from goats, to coffee, to beans and rice (courtesy of USAID) on sale.
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Day 3 on our northern Ethiopia treck brought us to Gondar. Gondar previously served as the capital of both the Ethiopian Empire and the subsequent Begemder Province. The city holds the remains of several royal castles that date back to the 17th century under the reign of Emperor Fasilides, including those in Fasil Ghebbi (the Royal Enclosure), for which Gondar has been called the "Camelot of Africa." We had seen many castles in Africa (specifically in Ghana and Senegal), but these had been constructed by Europeans for purely economic purposes included the trafficking of slaves. These castles on Gondar were the first true "African" castles we had come across and they were truly spectacular and grand. Debre Berhane Salassie Church was another highlight of the city. Built by Emperor Fasilides as an homage to the "Trinity and Mountain of Light," the church is adorned with gorgeous examples of Ethiopian church art includes hundreds of angel gazing down from the ceiling and biblical stories all over the walls. We ended the day by visiting Fasilides's swimming pool, an enormous pool surrounding a smaller building in the center. The pool is the site of mass baptisms of both local inhabitants and pilgrims. Before leaving Gondar, we stopped at the abbey of 18th century Empress Mentewab with it's accompanying collection of well preserved artifacts including ancient Amharic Old Testament volumes. In the grass outside the abbey was a Sunday School class of young children being led by another child who may have been only five or six years older than the rest of them. It was moving site, especially when they began to sing which our kid promptly decided that he would be a part of. At the end of the day, he was finally rewarded for all of his patience with hours of fun at the giant playground next to our hotel at the top of another hill. (A playground where apparently every parent in the city takes their kid until sundown...)
Our fourth day of touring northern Ethiopia gave us a reprieve from flying. Instead, we enjoyed a two hour drive through picturesque villages to the city of Bahir Dar located at the southern end of Lake Tana (better known as the source of the Blue Nile River). Upon arrival, we departed by boat over the lake for the Zeghie Peninsula which is known for its 14th century, round, grass roofed churches and their wall murals. The boat ride itself was pleasant on the way over but a little rough on the way back. We did, however, get to see where the Blue Nile starts at the southern end of the lake. The next day, we drove for what seemed forever through village after village to pick up another guide who walked us through the mud (and across the Nile again) to a vantage point where we saw the Blue Nile Falls. As it was the wrong season, they were not as spectacular as they could have been, but we did enjoy interacting with the locals as we walked around the bush a bit.
I guess I am in charge of the closing to this blog post. Ha ha ha! There is a lot of history with in the borders of Ethiopia and I am glad that we made it a trip while we lived here. Y'all know that I am not a very religious person, but it was amazing seeing all of the love, passion and faith that many Ethiopians have. They are a kind and gentle people, always willing to help and always with a smile. A week is no where near enough time to have in this country, I could have stayed another two, but of course our itinerary took us on to the next country, which was Rwanda. We have already posted about that one so be sure to check it out!
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