Hello again dear friends and, before I forget, a special thanks to all of you dedicated (or at the very least mildly curious) readers out there. While this blog makes a very good journal to keep track of and look back on down the road, it's also out there as a way to stay in touch with all of you guys and let you know what we've been up to. So with that, I thank you for keeping this blog "alive" so to speak. And without further adieu....Fes and Ifrane:
I took this trip solo sans wife and kid who were gone visiting friends and family between our big family trips. For that reason, it's just me writing with no additions in orange from Sabrina (for those who didn't know or were confused, that's how we've been running this thing for a while)
The city of Fes is only about a couple hours east of Rabat and is actually three separate cities: the 20th century modern city built by the French, the 13th century "Middle" city and the old Medina which has been around since the 9th century.
After picking up my guide, my first stop was the King's palace. Before Rabat was the capital, Fes served for centuries as the royal seat of power. Naturally there's a sizable palace in the middle city where the current royal family still likes to get away to from Rabat now and then. Pictures really don't do it justice (especially from my potato camera on my iPhone. Absolutely beautiful with 7 doors in the front (for good luck). Nearby is the old Jewish and Berber quarters of the middle city (complete with a fascinating Synagogue from the 13th century I was able to peak into (sorry no good pictures came out).
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Broad view of the main entrances to the palace |
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Obligatory "door" photo next to the archway with Koranic verses |
Next, we made our way to the old Medina (which I mentioned dates back to the 9th century). Even if you are more of a "do-it-yourself" person. You ABSOLUTELY need a guide to get around this medina. A labirynth of narrow alleyways, different levels, and confusing intersection, the Medina (or what's properly known as Fes el-Bali is home to over 4000 of the over 1M people who live in the greater Fes metropolis. No cars are allowed in the medina so everything moves either by hand cart or pack animal (of which there were many). The whole are is rich in sights, sounds, and definitely smells, and it's easy to see why the UN has named it a world heritage sight and is spending money to restore and preserve it for the ages. While walking around, we ran in to shops that sell everything from meat, to electrical equipment, street food of all sorts, metal goods, silk carpets, and a traditional leather tannery where fine leather goods of all types are made entirely by hand using ancient materials and methods.
We also ran into schools from kindergarten to very famous Islamic high schools and university all within this mass of humanity. The schools and accompanying mosques are all constructed with such a fine attention to detail that it almost makes your eyes hurt. It's hard to consider just how long it took to put together each mosaic or hand carve intricate Koranic versus out of plaster or wood. They just don't make them how they used to.
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View from inside one of the Madrassas (Koranic school) |
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Alcove typically found within prayer rooms to indicate the direction of Mecca |
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Marble fountain for ritual washing of the face, hands, and feet before prayer |
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View inside the chamber of the masoleum of King Idris (one of Morocco's royal founders) |
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Beautiful, large, wooden door I had to get a picture of just because I though it was cool |
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Intricate Koran verses carved out of wood. (Note: Islamic tradition discourages pictorial depictions of holy people and places. Thus, the words of the Koran itself become the subject of artistic outlet in most holy places). |
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Mosque minaret |
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Fountain in the Medina |
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Detailed woodcarving on a wall outside the mosque |
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Looking in the mausoleum chamber |
After spending the night in Fes, I headed south to the town of Ifrane located a little deeper in the Middle Atlas range of mountains. I came under the understanding that this town was a little different than other Moroccan cities in that it had a little more Alpine-European feel. What I got was exactly that plus something I've been missing since we left the states, SNOW.
After just a few minutes, I noticed that I was about the only foreign tourist around. Maybe it was because this is not the big tourism season, but I felt like I stumbled upon a Moroccan secret as the streets and pedestrian plazas were bustling with people clearly from out of town who came to take in the atmosphere. Now that the secret is out, sad to say, there will probably be more and more of us coming to invade in the near future.
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Driving south in to the mountains (and being perfectly safe taking pictures while paying attention to the road) |
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The bustling center of town |
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Forest restaurant with European and Moroccan fare. |
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Nice Bavarian style house near the center of town |
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SNOW |
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...and cats. |
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This lion sculpture (I know it's hard to see) was like a rockstar in itself. There was a hoard of people just trying to get in front to take a picture. Hence why the awful shot of it. |
After a nice couple of days, it was good to come back home just to pack and get ready for the next adventure to come shortly. Tune in to see where we land in a week or so. A tout a l'heure!
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